DARIEN GAP

The Darien Gap

The Darien Gap is a geographical challenge; its near impenetrable jungles the only interruption in the otherwise complete, 30,000-mile-long Pan-American Highway. For centuries its mystery lured and seemingly swallowed up ill-prepared explorers in its canopied, labyrinthine jungles. Travel writer, Hilary Bradt, describes it as a ‘swampy wasteland crawling with venomous creatures, ready at a moment’s notice to suck unsuspecting explorers into its oozing depths’.

This reputation warned off many would-be adventurers away. Even today, crossing the gap remains a pioneering achievement for those who succeed. Of the handful of successful crossings in the last 50 years (Secret Compass teams aside), the most well documented is possibly the 1975 motorised crossing undertaken by the British explorer, Col. John Blashford-Snell.

The Embera Indians

The Embera are one of Panama’s indigenous Indian groups, living in the Darien along the shores of the Chucunaque, Sambu and Tuira rivers. They live in small villages of five to 20 houses and have their own form of autonomous government and rules, separate from the Panamanian government. Some still live off the land hunting wild fish and game using traditional methods. While the Embera have long been known for their distinctive appearance – wearing brightly coloured skirts and painting their bodies in intricate geometric patterns – they’re just as likely to be wearing normal western clothes these days. Smartphones and satellite TV too have found their way into the jungle’s remotest reaches. Teammates keen to learn from a ‘host and guest’ experience when staying near villages (rather than expecting to observe contrived displays of traditional culture) will leave feeling rewarded.

The Petroglyphs

Petroglyphs are rock engravings, often associated with prehistoric peoples. The ‘Yarre Mongara’ or Monkey Stone was documented by Robert Hyman (an American photographer-explorer) and Daniel Castaneda (a local Embera Indian) in 1995. Previously only known to the local Embera Indians who inhabit the area, the petroglyphs were dated to 3000-5000 BC. Hyman returned in 2005 to discover other sites though the area remains largely unexplored with more sites potentially remaining undiscovered.

Escaping colonisation

Arriving in what are now the Americas, the Spanish first settled in the Darien region in 1510. Their initial efforts to colonise were torched by indigenous tribes a few years later. Later came the Scottish, who founded a coastal trading colony. They ultimately failed too, with settlers perishing from disease and attack and a loss of wealth so significant that Scotland was all but bankrupted. If history had played out here as elsewhere in the world during this period, the Darien would be today one of the most populated regions in the Americas. Instead, it remains as wild today as it was during the days of the attempted conquests.

Your guide

Rick Morales is one of Panama’s most respected naturalists and guides having worked there since 1998. In recent years he has been directly involved with the rediscovery of the colonial trail, Camino Real Colonial. Rick is frequently quoted in articles and literature concerning the Darien Gap and its people, flora and fauna. Feedback for Rick is consistently of the ‘embarrassingly good’ variety. His local connections and knowledge ensure that the team is kept best informed at all times, with teammates always keen to pick his brains on topics from the jungle and its inhabitants to the current or historical political situation in the region. In 2011 Rick became the first person to walk the Panama Trail, a thru-hike from the Colombian border to Costa Rica. This is part of the Trans-Panama project which aims to develop and map sections of trail connecting regions and people throughout Panama.

Wildlife in the Darien

There is a staggering range of bird life in the Darien including the harpy eagle, four species of macaw, kingfishers and tropical toucans. The region is also home to jaguars, tapirs, anteaters, monkeys, iguanas, snakes, frogs and caimans. Despite its natural riches, expedition leader Rick is keen for teammates to arrive with sensible expectations about bird and animal spotting. This expedition is a challenging trek in a region known for its wildlife, rather than a staged safari with guaranteed sightings. He’s recently seen all manner of creatures from troops of monkeys to a stealthy puma… so fingers crossed the forest is on your side!